There was a girl in my high school theater group named Vanessa. Vanessa was charming and smart. Everyone seemed to love her. In fact, I never met her. She transferred to another school before I joined the group but her reputation was an aftertaste I put up with for weeks. Apparently, I looked something like Vanessa and my mannerisms reminded others in the group of her. For most, though, I was just a reminder that she was gone. Weeks passed, opening nights came and went, but before the year ended I finally earned a name for myself. Not as “the girl who isn’t Vanessa” but as – me.
Lincoln Park was lamenting the loss of its dear Café Bernard, a stalwart neighborhood restaurant that had served French fare on the corner of Halsted and Dickens since before the Sears tower was a thing (Café Bernard had been around a really, really long time) when Chez Moi first took over their vacated spot three years ago. For many, Café Bernard was their first real dip into the pool of French cuisine. If anyone was able to successfully fill its shoes, it was Chef Dominique Tougne, formerly of Bistro 110, a French cook with years of culinary creativity under his belt.
Chef Tougne partnered with former Blackhawks goaltender Cristobal Huet (seriously) and pushed to create his own name at the iconic location. Sure, some were confused at first. Chez Moi was an aide-mémoire of the old that had moved on. Ask around now, however, and everyone knows the corner not as “where that other restaurant used to be” but as the French bistro where they serve incredible braised lamb shank, perfectly prepared rainbow trout, and an unbelievable beef tenderloin with a phyllo crust.
I stopped by Chez Moi to try their current menu. Here’s the whole picture.
The Whole Picture
The atmosphere: Purposely feels like you’re stepping into the home of a close family member or friend. An inclusively friendly wait staff mingles between guests and each other. The lighting is warmly dim but not dark, and the tables are even tattooed with a stylized branding of the name. I wouldn’t feel under-dressed here in jeans and an Oxford or overdressed in a cocktail dress. It’s just a comfortable place.
What type of French fare is this? Curious and creative but not too far off the edge. When Chef Tougne first opened, he dreamed of pig’s feet and eel plates. I’m not sure if those dishes were indeed served, and if so I’m sure they were fantastic, but where the menu finds itself now is more my speed. Juicy, tender meats, flaky fish, and well seasoned veggies. It’s all so upper crust that they’ve even thrown in some poutine as a reminder of their down to earth mentality. Oh, and that poutine is amazing!
From the menu: I began with the cherry tomatoes which were warm and buttery but forgettable next to the poutine which is made in traditional Quebec style with gravy, cheese curds, and bacon. (Hey, bacon always beats vegetable.) For a main course, both the braised lamb shank and rainbow trout were more juicy than even the cherry tomatoes. Still, the beef tenderloin in phyllo crust stole the show. I can’t even describe it. You must experience it yourself. I’m not big on beef but this dish could turn even the staunchest vegan.
Finally, the sélection de glaces et de sorbets maison (an assortment of ice creams and sorbets) and tarte aux pommes maison (an apple tart topped with homemade ice cream) are made in-house and are fantastic. The apple tart particularly is not too sweet and deliciously flaky. My favorite, though, was the mousse au chocolat Barry Callebaut (chocolate mousse) which was creamy like pudding but wonderfully rich. On another note, boy did I pig out!
You Should Know
- Chez Moi offers brunch Saturday and Sunday between 9:30am – 3:00pm.
Atmosphere: 4/4. Warm and inclusively friendly, clean, and comfortable.
Service: 4/4. Knowledgable, attentive, and friendly. Bethany waited on me and was delightful.
Price: 4/4. Mid-priced and well worth the bill.
Food: 4/4. I’m not exaggerating when I say this was the best French meal I’ve had in Chicago.
“First Visit” rating: 4
Disclosure: As is common with restaurant reviews, meals were provided by Chez Moi. The opinions expressed herein are those of the author, Kari Herrera, and are not indicative of the opinions or positions of Chez Moi.